Cook’s Illustrated’s The Science of Good Cooking, my latest library rental, is organized by concepts — 50 of them! — but none so much as #28 halted my page turning: Don’t Soak Beans—Brine ‘Em. I read on to discover that Cook’s Illustrated recommends not only soaking beans in salted water but also cooking beans in salted water — as in salted water right from the start. Note: This is NOT a book to give to your favorite nonna.